Egypt, ancient Misr – the protected land (part I)
Photographs inadequately represent Egypt. Some are gifted with capturing the visual more stunningly than the human eye can, but in my inexperienced hands, snapshots remain merely that. Split seconds shots, which reduce an endless expanse of desert to flattened layers, and shrink massive, crumbling facades to screens and shadows. Like so, the tombs of great kings :
The greatest pyramid of Giza, tomb of King Khufu (also Cheops)
Even after 5000 years, the detailed stonework of the eyes of the Great Spinx of Giza remains, visible despite the relentless sandstorm.
The Valley of Kings, burial ground of Pharoahs and their queens for generations
Columns of the Karnak Temple in Luxor (Ancient Thebes)
The temples of gods, built by the pharoahs, who were as gods themselves, stand despite the waters that used to flood Egypt seasonally – flushing anything, and everything, out of the path of the Nile – including the roofs of these temples.
- Hatshepsut’s Obelisk, erected by her father, Tuthmosis I
Here stand the skyscrapers of ancient egypt. They were built to honour great names and lofty titles, and they were torn down to show hostility, power and dominion. The remnants that still stand are the colour of old teeth and bleached bone, recalling everything past, dispossessed of all heritage and living memory. They continue as receptacles for the stories of thousands of nameless people and their pictures.
The oldest, most lasting way to remember - stonework
Columns of the inner courts at Karnak
Old shapes, older stones. Monuments carved singularly, from the very rock of mountains, ordered by the arrogance of Pharoahs. We know their names till today. Ramses, Rameses, Ramsis, Tutankamen, Nefertiti, Cleopatra – only their bodies and their sucesses persist, the former wrapped and dessicated husks, the latter breathtaking and towering, yet both are made immortal under the same sky.
- Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel
Rameses II and his son (I think)
All details of the carving preserved by the layers of silt and alluvium that, ages ago, kept these places buried deep underground. Where the faces of the gods and pharoahs were not protected by sand, their very features were holed in, or knocked out, by those who sought to desecrate a foreign culture.
Old stone, hard stone, dry, relentless, sobering stone that remembers gods and kings until it is no longer stone but dust.
Hieroglyphics on the crumbling wallsA scene between god and king
The Avenue of Sphinxes
Where walk the gods, there also stand sentinel the sphinxes and rams.